April 10, 2012

Limbo

I have an issue. When I left Ecuador to come back to Peru on February 16, the bus stopped in Ecuador for me to get my stamp to prove that I exited Ecuador. At this particular border, we had to go to a different location to legally enter Peru and get my entrance stamp. Welp the bus never stopped in Peru and according to my passport, I am neither in Ecuador nor Peru aka limbo. I didn't take care of my issue when I was in Lima (I know, dumb) and now that I have been in Arequipa for over 5 weeks and preparing to cross another border, I decided it would be a good idea to fix my problem before attempting to enter Bolivia. Today Teo helped me call the immigration office to figure out what to do. The rude woman on the phone at the Arequipa office told Teo that I would have to go back to the Peru/Ecuador border so he said thanks and hung up. I don't understand what this has to do with Ecuador and why I would need to get that specific border involved. We called the Lima office 2 minutes before they closed to ask for the same assistance in solving my issue. The helpful man on the line told Teo, who was posing as the person with the issue that he could resolve his frustrating situation here in Arequipa. At 10am tomorrow, Teo and I will go to the immigration office and aren't leaving without my stamp so that I can peacefully enter Bolivia!

Earlier today, I went out to find some lunch and stumbled across a restaurant offering menu (lunch where you get a starter, entrée and juice for a handful of Soles) that said 'Vegetariano' at the bottom of the dry erase board propped up in front of the door. I stared at the board for a minute or so rather confused because the  starter was vegetarian, but the two options for entrées were typical Peruvian dishes with beef: Lomo Saltado and Chuleta but they each had the word 'gluten' after the listed dishes. I walked in anyway prepared to sit down and ask what the deelio was. I was immediately brought my juice which tasted a little bit like celery juice with a hint of orange, silverware, and a bread roll. I was brought the vegetable soup after I confirmed that I wanted menu for lunch. When the woman came back, who was clearly a partner with her husband in this restaurant, to ask me what I wanted for my second dish I asked what 'gluten' meant. It turns out that the plates they serve are made with soy- imitation meat! I was thrilled and ordered the Chuleta. After eating 3/4 of my vegetable soup, I was feeling full and contemplated stopping with just my soup when the woman brought out my main dish. I struggled to eat my soy meat and some of the cilantro rice with peas and carrots. I called it a day without even touching the bread nor the dessert. I went to pay, thanked the family whose restaurant I was dining in, and explained that everything was delicious but that I was full. I handed them a 20 Sole bill for my 6 Sole lunch. There was a young mother in her early 30s holding her 10 month old son, sitting next to her grandfather of about 65 years and her daughter who was no more than 4 years old. They were eating chocolate cake topped with strawberries and I commented that there was chocolate cake all over the little girl's face and we all giggled. The 65 year old asked me where I was from and I made them guess which I LOVE doing these days. First answer; Europe. Too easy! You can't guess an entire continent! Usually they guess Germany, France, Switzerland and if they're lucky, the United States. I shook my head at his first guess and then he asked if I was from the U.S. I think I confuse people because right now my hair is more blonde than brown and especially with my green-blue eyes, the U.S. is not a first guess. Germany, France, and Switzerland produce beautiful, blonde, and tall women and i'm realizing that I fall into this category. The gentleman and his surrounding family members were shocked with disbelief that I was an American I was quite flattered. Americans don't have a very good reputation in South America and I am treated very differently if I tell someone (without speaking English) that I am from somewhere other than America. I've experimented with this hypothesis and sadly, I am treated the opposite when someone finds out I am American. Anywho, the man, who's name is Hedy continued to ask me questions like if I had been to Colombia and if I was traveling alone because it wouldn't be safe for someone so charming and beautiful to travel to Colombia alone. He asked me how I learned to speak Castellano so well (people from Spain speak Español and everywhere else speaks Castellano) and told me a bit about Colombia where his son went to live for 11 months back before he was married. We talked about the fruit in South American and the delicious mangoes in Colombia The he asked me how much I weigh. His granddaughter, the young mother snapped at her grandfather telling him he was asking an inappropriate question. I said it was okay and I answered with no shame that I weigh 85 kilos. We talked about whether I play sports because it might be difficult for me with the altitude and cold weather in Bolivia. Hedy asked if I dance or play and instruments and I told him that I have been involved in singing for my entire life, not professionally, but in choirs, musicals, and an acapella group when I was in College. Hedy asked his daughter in law, the woman who served me lunch for a pencil and a piece of paper. He wrote down the name of a DJ at a local radio station who would be interested in talking to me and that I should mention Hedy's name. I told Hedy that I didn't want to sing on the radio and Hedy explained that his friend likes to meet 'extrañjeros' which means 'outsiders' and that he would be interested in meeting me. Hedy's son came back with my change from lunch but he asked for 1 Sole from me so that he could give me an even 14 back. I didn't have any change! He told me it was ok and I said I would see him tomorrow to eat again and to give him the difference and I am looking forward to it after going to immigration with Teo. I came back and told Teo my story from lunch and it turns out that he knows the guy at the radio station I will go see on Thursday at 10am- the time of his radio show. He showed me this guy's pictures on facebook and boy is he handsome! And 25! This has been such a great day- now only if I can have success tomorrow with immigration! Wish me luck.